OFF THE BEATEN PATH
There are so many beautiful places in Italy that are just not on the map. This is just one of them. I found this place online looking for a place for me and my husband to stay for the weekend of 4th of July.
With no expectations and with a true open mind ready to take in whatever the weekend had in store for us, we headed out from Naples destination Abruzzo. We wanted to go the alternative route so no main highways for us. But believe it or not that was the greatest decision we made.
The road going through the mountains had some of the most spectacular scenery we have ever seen in Italy and it was absolutely an amazing spectacle to behold. The nature with an abundance of trees, mountains, birds, and the smell of the flowers were so breathtaking and powerful that the stress of military life had vanquished with only an hours drive and the stress and hustle and bustle of good ol Napoli seemed far far away. The sharp corners climbing the last mountain is something to overcome if you have problems with heights but once there you forget all about it.
On this mountain top in Abruzzo in the small village of Decontra with the National Park of Majella as its neighbor, we found our heaven. Our ultimate destination for the weekend was the Agriturismo Pietrantica.
As we got out of our car we were greeted by our host Marisa with a great smile and happy that we finally found her. This little community was taken right out of a fairytale. Old houses – and not many of them – the people working in the gardens tending to the business of farming, their dogs running around freely. We settled in our room which was simple and just like it needed to be for a place like this. Our bed were nice and soft and the view from the window was amazing.
As the sun was getting ready to set we took of on a small walk. Right up the hill we could see down the gorge and after that it’s hard to explain just how beautiful it is there.
The smells and the fresh air of the mountains will make you sleep like a baby. You might feel a little more winded than usual but rest assure that it is just the altitude.
Marisa kindly had made reservations for us at the only restaurant in town – Il Cervo. We went there to find that no English was spoken. We don’t care because we just order as we know best in our best Italian. The food was amazing and so different from what we experience in Naples. We tried some stewed stag, some wonderful vegetables and potatoes and the local white vine was the icing of the cake.
So what do you do in a beautiful place like Decontra when you were not prepared for hiking heaven??? Well, you enjoy all the other things there are to see in the area. We went to Caramenico Terme, not only an extremely “cute” village but also just a great place to relax. They have the thermal baths where you can go and enjoy yourself, many restaurants, shops and the atmosphere is so relaxing and soothing. But the best part of the area is the crispness of the air during mid-summer but of course we all know that’s due to the high altitude.
Going back down to sea level only took a short time and we wanted to see the Adriatic Sea. We went to Pescara where we parked next to the train station and walked to the water. Shops where on both sides of the walking street but I have to let you know the prices were a little steep. Many designer stores, bars and hotels led the way. The beach was packed and as we sat and got something cold to drink people was still arriving there by the dozens. The water was nice and fresh but the place a little crowded.
After a nice day at sea level we headed back into the mountains. We had already made many friends there, guests as well as the people working there and next door. Everyone were so friendly and when invited to have dinner at the Agriturismo Saturday night we were thrilled. All the guests and even people visiting their homes in Decontra came for a very well cooked dinner made by Marisa with only the help of her husband Camillo. Marisa surprised all with an incredible spread fit for a king and his court, the food absolutely blew us away and it was a treat we will not forget. Marisa even makes her own pasta and let me tell you the treat it was to eat at her table. Her wine was homemade and so was the after dinner shots. Again something to try for everyone.
Sunday afternoon was time to head back to good old Napoli. Reluctantly we packed our things, and decided to take the scenic route back again – only this time we had found another route. Marisa promised me that it was not to bad with the heights but I think she has a different measure than most people. So again if you have problems with heights don’t go this way. But for me it was absolutely beautiful. We went through the National Park and words are not big enough for the views there.
We even met a little donkey just minding his/her own business of the side of the road and he/she fit in like the most natural thing in the world. No wonder it was wagging its tale – wouldn’t you if you had no worries in the world?
Going back there are many small towns we wanted to visit but that has to wait for our next trip and there will be another trip to Decontra. Next time we are bringing all the hiking gear ready to enjoy the volumes of interesting trips they offer.
If you ever want to go to a place where you can think and reflect this is the place. No disturbances and a calmness to soothe your soul, Decontra is a wonderful choice. For us an exhilarating experience meeting people in a place that is truly a piece of paradise on earth only 4 hours drive from Naples.
For further information about accommodation see:
www.agripietrantica.com or www.31decontra.com (the next door B&B)
- Just one of the beautiful views
- The donkey wagging his/her tale
- Our accomodation Agriturismo Pietrantica
- In the restaurant Il Cervo
- The streets of Caramenico Terme
- My beloved husband made it to the top
- The work of John…. we love these pictures
- You cannot imagine how breath taking the views are








What a wonderful trip you made ! We too love Italy and nature and agriturismos. Herewith website of Fattoria Santa felicita paterna in Umbria where we stayed recently
http://www.lapaterna.it/
With a view on hay, agriculturers and ruines – recommended ! Kathleen